These are the books I use most often

Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1700­ Arene – Danish history of costume that contains scale drafts, close-ups of period garments, and period illustrations
Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1790-­1840
 – As above
Bech, Viben. Moden 1840­-1890
 – As above

Janet Arnold – “Patterns of Fashion” series, 4 books, from 1660-1930 now including one on linen garments

Nancy Bradfield – “Costume in Detail” from c. 1700-1930

Jean Hunnisett – “Period Costume for Stage and Screen” series – 5 books from Medieval to 1910, later for outer garments

Norah Waugh – “Cut of Women’s Clothes”, “Cut of Men’s Clothes” from 1600-1930 and “Corsets and Crinolines”

R.I. Davis – “Men’s 17th and 18th Century Costume, Cut and Fashion”, “Men’s Garments 1830-1900”

Francois Boucher – “A History of Costume in the West”

James Laver – “Costume and Fashion”

“Costume Close-up”, “Eighteenth Century Clothing” and “What Clothes Reveal” (Linda Baumgarten) “Fitting and Proper” (Sharon Ann Burnston) and “Historic Costume in Detail” (17th and 18th century) (Avril Hart and Susan North) are also on my shelves. (“19th Century Costume in Detail” is a new addition.)